A “pearl” of a place for “The Dish”

I’ll be singing the “praises” for Boiler House at the Pearl this week–or probably I’ll just speak them.

I’d heard a lot of good things about this place, but it took me a while to find my way down there. Saturday night I had their roasted cod in brown butter with capers and a little of their whipped potatoes with bacon and Gruyere. The former is very light, and if you like cod, a great example of how “less is more” in preparing the fish. The latter is just the opposite, but just as good: the richest, guiltiest mashers you ever had. Made to share.

The ever-changing menu features “tasting” entrees that sound small, but are enough, and many things you can share. Some, like the whipped potatoes, you should share.

With a place like Boiler House, you wonder if someone’s just plunked down an okay restaurant in a premium setting (the Pearl) to pull in the tourists. Far from it—this place is a winner all by itself. Executive chef Jeff White may be on a second career, but Boiler House gets first place from me.

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